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Chromatic Evolution: The Transformative Journey of Hair Dyes
The image of our parents deftly whisking hair colouring brushes in a weathered plastic container on Sunday mornings brings an outpour of nostalgia. A mirror reflecting back sunlight, retro tunes in the background and daddy dear diligently painting his moustache, ensuring there’s no trace of grey left. In those days, it seemed that the sole intent behind hair colours was to conceal the signs of ageing. That it will become an integral part of self expression through the most vibrant colours known to man, was a fact we were unaware of. It might seem like a fairly new concept but hair colour traces its ways back to ancient civilisation. The intrinsic human desire to alter one's appearance, either to suit societal standards or to subvert them, has existed throughout history. It represents an unceasing quest for self-expression and identity and the advent of hair dyes stands out as an important catalyst for the accomplishment of this desire. Ancient men tried all sorts of things from plants, animals and toxic chemicals to colour their hair. Changing hair colour wasn't just about looking good, there were other reasons too. Besides doing it to cover up greys, people sometimes did it to show which group they belonged to in their community. For instance, warriors and leaders would go for strong colours, while wise folks or learners might pick different shades. They mixed flower petals, leaves, and earthy colours to make their hair extra special. When the wind rustled through their colourful hair, it carried stories from a time when people showed who they were and how they felt about the world by putting vibrant colours in their lives. My City Links delved into the evolution of hair dyes from history to present day.
History of Hair Dyes
In ancient times, people turned to nature's palette to dye their hair. The quest for vibrant shades led them to experiment with various plant and animal-based ingredients, often with limited success. The motivations behind hair dyeing were diverse: from covering greys to signalling social status, and even standing out in a crowd. For instance, warriors and leaders would go for strong colours, while philosophers or learners might pick different shades. They mixed flower petals, leaves, and earthy colours to make their hair extra special.
The Egyptians used henna to cover their greys, a practice which is still followed vastly by Indians. They also used gold powder on their wigs for a little shine. The Greek philosophers associated beauty with divinity and using hair dyes to accentuate physical beauty soon was in fashion. Naturally black-haired Romans found themselves infatuated with foreigners and their blonde hair.
Eventually, the colour blonde came to be associated with sensuality and lustfulness. It became mandatory for Roman sex workers to dye their hair blonde for identification, as a result, yellow-shades were looked down upon by the ‘respectable’ women. In coming years, these women too would desire blonde hair in order to keep their men interested. For darker colours, the Greeks and Romans started using a mixture of lead oxide and calcium hydroxide which was replaced with fermented leeches as soon as the former was discovered to be toxic for the human body. A mix of beechwood ash and animal fat turned hair into a blazing red colour for Gauls who expected to look menacing on the battlefield. Before red hair was accepted during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, redheads were suspected to be witches.
Early Evolution
Before the 1800s, dyes were mainly made from plants, animals, or even dangerous chemicals that were a pain to use. But everything shifted when William Henry Perkin accidentally created the first synthetic dye while trying to find a cure for malaria. He ended up with a lovely purple shade, which he called Mauveine. This became the basis for the hair dyes we know today. In 1907, French chemist Eugene Schueller cooked up the first 'safe' chemical hair dye for everyday use, and he called it “L'Oréal”, after striking off “Oréal”. During the early 1900s, women harboured concerns about the safety of commercial hair dyes. Chemical-based hair colouring was viewed with suspicion, and it suffered from an image problem reminiscent of the conservative Victorian era. Back then, it was often associated with vanity, a practice reserved for women considered less conventional and respectable, rather than for the modest and dignified housewives of the time.
During the 1930s, the actress Jean Harlow set the world abuzz with the Platinum Blonde trend through her role in a Howard Hughes film. Although women across the globe dyed their hair blonde after Harlow’s move, hair dyeing retained its bad reputation as Harlow never admitted colouring her hair. During the 1940s, as the beauty trend gained momentum, salons began discreetly providing back entrances for clients who preferred to keep their hair dyeing habits under wraps. As time marched on into the 1970s and 1980s, icons like Cyndi Lauper and David Bowie boldly embraced vibrant hair colours, reshaping societal norms and making hair dyes acceptable.
This paved the path for the diverse spectrum of shades and innovative techniques that would flourish in the 1990s and beyond. Indian celebrities like Karishma Kapoor and Madhuri Dixit were seen with coloured hair in 90s Bollywood movies.
Scene Today
From 2015 to 2020, the Hair colourants market in India had steady growth, with an average yearly increase of 11.93%. In 2020, it reached a total sales value of INR 48,543.63 Million, which was 6.39% more than the previous year. The market performed exceptionally well in 2018, with a growth rate of 15.18%, but it slowed down a bit in 2020 due to the pandemic, with a 6.39% increase. Due to the surging trend of using hair colour as a fashion statement in addition to concealing grey hair, the hair colour market has been growing steadily in India. Evolving lifestyles and growing incomes make people more conscious of their appearance, which also contributes to an increase in demand. Increasing availability, variety and aggressive marketing by manufacturers to attract customers is another reason. While famous brands like L'Oréal, Godrej, Revlon and BBlunt gave us colours that were subtle and understated, new brands like Paradyes, Crazy colour and Streax have set the trend of bold and vibrant colours, especially among the youth.
Types of Hair Dyes
There are several types of hair dyes available in the beauty industry, each catering to different preferences and needs. From permanent to temporary options, hair dye offers a world of possibilities for personal expression. My City Links talked to Ruksana Hussainy, owner of ‘Arzoo Salon and Spa’. She explained, "Permanent hair dyes are a go-to for those looking for long-lasting, dramatic colour changes, while semi-permanent dyes offer vibrant shades that gradually fade without a commitment. If you want to experiment without commitment, try temporary hair sprays or chalks." In addition to the permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary options, there are specialised hair dyes for various needs. The beauty parlour owner continued, "If you're concerned about damaging your hair, consider using ammonia-free dyes, which are gentler on your locks. For those who want to cover up grey hair, there are root touch-up dyes that blend with your natural colour." Furthermore, there are also natural and organic hair dyes, such as henna or plant-based options, which appeal to those seeking a more eco-friendly and hypoallergenic approach to hair colouring.
Damage Done By Hair Dyes
Hair dyes, while they offer a multitude of options for self-expression and personal style, can come at a cost. According to Ruksana Hussainy, "Over time, excessive use of hair dyes can lead to weakened and brittle hair. Many of my clients experience issues such as dryness, split ends, and even hair breakage due to the chemicals in the dyes." Aishwarya Mishra, a working professional and frequent user of hair dyes lamented, "I love experimenting with different colours, but I've definitely noticed my hair becoming thinner and less vibrant. It's a constant battle to maintain the health of my hair while achieving the desired look." The parlour owner recommends, "To mitigate the damage, it's crucial to use high-quality, ammonia-free dyes, and invest in regular deep conditioning treatments. Taking breaks between colouring sessions and giving your hair time to recover is essential. Opting for more natural shades and highlights can also reduce the impact on hair health, allowing you to enjoy the best of both worlds – vibrant hair and its long-term well-being." While hair dyes can be a fun and transformative tool, it's essential to balance the excitement of changing one's hair colour with proper care and consideration for the potential damage it can cause over time.
Influence of Social Media
Social media has played a significant role in influencing people's choices when it comes to opting for bold hair colours. The constant exposure to a wide variety of colourful and creative hair transformations on platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest has inspired many individuals to step out of their comfort zones and experiment with bold shades. The allure of viral trends and influencers showcasing their vibrant, eye-catching hair colours has led people to seek similar experiences. “My first purchase of a bold hair colour like purple was after I saw a really cool ad by a brand named ‘Paradyes’, which wasn’t as famous as it became after they went on the show ‘Shark Tank’. The ads are really well made, and even the founder herself uses the products and posts them on their page, that also gave me confidence in their product,” says Ayesha Jamal, an Odia residing in Bangalore. Krupa Goyal, a small business owner and frequent social media user said, "Seeing all these stunning and unique hair colours on Instagram made me want to try something bold and stand out from the crowd. It's like a form of self-expression that social media has made accessible to everyone." The ability to connect with a global community of like-minded individuals who appreciate and encourage daring hair colour choices has also fueled this trend.
Acceptance in Odisha
In the culturally traditional landscape of Odisha, dyeing grey hair is a normal practice, either with black hair dye, or with Henna. Our parents and grandparents are pretty used to the idea of using hair dye as a means of concealing ageing. Almost a decade ago, circa 2013-2014, there was a new trend that became a topic of discussion (read: fights) at most Odia homes, highlights. Highlights are that style of hair colouring where only a few sections of your hair would be dyed a different shade, usually golden brown or blonde. Cut to a decade later, the discussion has shifted to a bolder choice of colours that are completely different from any shade of colour found around the world. “When I first dyed my hair pink in Bhubaneswar, I felt like a walking spectacle. My parents had already advised against it, to avoid the taunts of relatives, but I marched on,” reminisced Nishita Mishra, a resident of Bhubaneswar. She added, “Over time, those stares turned into curious glances, some people complimented my unique style, and some also asked me which products I used. It's a reminder that change takes time, but it's worth it to be authentic.” The cultural inclination towards simplicity and tradition has resulted in unconventional hair colours being looked down upon, as they were seen as a deviation from the norm. However, in recent years, there has been a noticeable shift in attitude as people in Odisha are slowly embracing the trend of bold hair colours. The influence of urbanisation, exposure to global fashion trends, and the widespread reach of social media have all played a role in changing perceptions. Lipishree Pattnaik, a young mother said, "It's refreshing to see the younger generation experimenting with their hair colours. It's a sign that we're evolving and opening up to new ideas, even in a traditionally rooted society like ours." While the transition is gradual, it reflects the evolving dynamics of cultural acceptance and individual expression in Odisha.
