The Jagannath Ghat

The Jagannath Ghat

Just like the Ganga river ghats in Varanasi, the ghats on the banks of Hooghly River in Kolkata too have a lot of religious significance. The term ‘Ghat’ is mostly used as a series of steps leading down to a water body, which is usually a holy river. The ghats in Kolkata have their own history and even today hold special significance in everyday life of the citizens of this old city. The significance of these ghats is clear from their mentions in great works by eminent poets and historians. The Ghats are sites of age old markets, bathing places, temples, immersion spots or just boarding points for the ferries that still ply on the river.

The prominent Ghats that have played a major role in the history of Kolkata and imbibe the true heritage of the fast changing city are the Princep Ghat, Ameniam Ghat, Chandpal Ghat, Baboo Ghat, Outram Ghat, Nimtalla Ghat, Mullick Ghat and the Jagannath Ghat.

Among all these, the Jagannath Ghat has special significance for the travellers who came to Puri. Just 50 metres north from the base of the Old Howrah Bridge, this Ghat was made by Sobharam Basak, a rich trader and banker who had become a millionaire by supplying  textiles to the East India Company.  He was a devout Jagannath devotee who made annual pilgrimages to Puri along with a huge entourage of pilgrims. Sobharam built the Ghat by the side of the Jagannath Temple which he had built at 1, Nabob Lane.  The Ghat was founded sometime between 1758, when the rebuilding of the Fort William started, and 1773, the year Sobharam died.

The location of this Ghat is intertwined with the Jagannath Temple. A walk down the cobbled Strand along the river takes you into another world. It is on the north bank of the Hooghly, near the Old Mint, the remains of which are still there. The Mint was the cantonment of Kalapahada, the infamous iconoclast, who in 1568 C.E., had   not only attacked the temple at Puri, but also carried away the deities to Kolkata. He had burnt the idols on the banks of the Ganga, very much near the present day ghat. While some believe he had Afghan origins, others say he was a Hindu Brahmin who converted to Islam after falling in love with the Bengal ruler Suleiman Karnani’s daughter. He later on wanted to reconvert, but the priests at Puri declined, and he took out his fury by attacking the temple.Picture Courtesy:  Purono Kolkata 

The legend of Bishar Mohanty, who collected the Daru Brahma from the ashes, hid them in his Mridanga and brought them back to Kujanga Gada is popular in the Jagannath lore. The mention of this act and the presence of a Bhootnath temple near the place find mention in the Madalapanji, the chronicles of the temple. The ancient Bhootnath temple still exists a few metres away from the Ghat.

Besides being a busy bathing ghat, the Jagannath Ghat was one of the busiest steam navigation stations on the Hooghly River. From the mid 1800’s, it was the embarkation and disembarkation points for the steamship services between Kolkata and Allahabad. The upcountry steamers, carrying both freight and passengers, brought pilgrims from Bhagalpur, Monghyr, Dinapore, Ghazipur, Benares, and Mirzapur. By 1852, there was a regular sailing for Dacca and Assam too.

The Jagannath Ghat was a start off point for the pilgrims who travelled on the Old Sadak to Puri. The pilgrims crossed the Hooghly by boats or the pontoon bridge. There were rest sheds for the travellers on both the banks and many benevolent traders and zamindars would run free kitchens. Alms and clothing are still distributed on auspicious days, a tradition which has its roots in the early days of the Ghat.

The Jagannath Ghat has a European touch which allures every visitor. The Doric style pavilion with pillars is built in a classical western style with a drum-shaped crown atop. The ghat has a wide entrance, platforms, bathing steps and a separate area for women. There are cast iron grills on the side walls. Most of the original work has been destroyed, and the beauty and grandeur is now almost hidden behind a clutter of hoardings and illegal constructions. The Rajasthani haveli-type dharmashala built by Seth Surajmal Jalan Trust lies decrepit. In spite of its decrepit state, the structure is structurally good due to its solid foundations and thick walls. Many additions and alterations have been made over the years. New steps have been added to the Ghat, as the tidal pattern of the river has altered. The Ghat is presently being managed by the Kolkata Port Trust. Alfred Hugh, the artist, has written a very detailed account of the Jagannath Ghat in his book “Through India and Burmah with Pen and Brush” (1911).

Feature & Banner Image Courtesy: NoiseBreak