The Magic Of Winters Of Odisha

The Magic Of Winters Of Odisha

The winter season has always been considered to be a magical time by people across the world. In Odisha too, the season is a time to relax and enjoy the short days and the cozy long nights and celebrate the new harvest in the comforting warmth of the Sun. For Odias in the countryside, life slows down and it is time for never-ending chit chats with friends and family and savor various delicacies as the season is filled with festivals, starting from October through February.

There was a time not very long ago when Odisha used to experience six seasons, but thanks to climate change, now that is a thing of the past. The only seasons we experience now are an extended summer, an erratic monsoon and a short winter. While up north, winter and snow are considered magical, they are also harsh. It is a time of low light and temperature. That is exactly why the people in G R R Martin’s A Song Of Ice And Fire keep saying ‘The night is dark and full of terrors.’ However, winters in Odisha are a beautiful time to enjoy and travel. 

A line from a popular Odia folk song goes like ‘Hime Kartika Margashira, Ratire Padai Sisira; Sita Re Pausa Magha Masa, Dehare Rakha Sita Basa’ which means during the cold of the months of Kartika and Margashira the nights are filled with dew and during the months of Pausa and Magha cover yourself in warm winter clothes. This is a time for the travel and tourism industry in the state to make hay. 

Festivities Galore

It is a well-known fact that Odias love to celebrate. Even though the age-old saying in Odisha goes ‘Bara Masa Tera Parba (13 festivals in 12 months)’, the number of festivals and melas are much more than that, especially in the winter season. Some of the celebrations between October and March are Kumara Purnima, Laxmi Puja, Diwali, Bali Jatra, Chada Khai, Prathamashtami, Samba Dashami, Makar Sankranti, Saraswati Puja and Shiv Ratri. This is just the tip of the iceberg. The Odia calendar is filled with many more oshas, bratas and other religious and agricultural celebrations.  

Celebration and festivities are a part of the cultural fabric of Odisha, feels septuagenarian Satyabrata Ojha of Badamba, Cuttack. There is no other state in India that loves to celebrate so much, he smiles with pride. “When I used to work at the Paradeep Port, I had colleagues from all over the country and they would always wonder about how Odias have something or the other going on almost every week. Although every festival or observation (oshas and bratas) is not a holiday, we manage to acknowledge them. I guess that is why we Odias are happy most of the time,” laughed the seasoned patriarch. 

Back in the day, a couple of decades ago, the arrival of winter meant the season of melas and jatras and it was a time of merry-making. “For us winter began with the arrival of Durga Puja in October and it continued well into March. These days, it is warm even as November is almost here. The climate has truly changed a lot and it is getting worse with every passing day. We used to travel a lot but now, with all this warm weather, it’s difficult,” he shared. 

A festival that is unique to Odisha, is the favorite of all the elder children in the family and it is known as Prathamashtami. This festival is associated with a delicious pitha called the enduri pitha. It is made by steaming a batter filled with scraped coconut and jaggery, wrapped in turmeric leaves. The aroma of the turmeric leaves is otherworldly, exclaimed Swagatika, a class 9 student. “Whether you are a child or an adult, Odisha has something to offer to everyone. I love it when my maternal uncle visits us during Prathamastami. Along with delicious pithas, I also get to have new clothes,” she shared beaming with a smile.

Apart from festivals, winter in Odisha also means many melas and jatras. The biggest one is Cuttack’s Bali Jatra, which is one of the largest trade fairs of Asia. It begins on the day of Kartika Purnima and continues for a week. It is observed in remembrance of the ancient maritime trade history of Odisha and the fair takes place on the banks of river Mahanadi. Apart from attracting all kinds of businesses and artisans, it also attracts lakhs of people from across the state and even from outside. 

For Satya Narayan Mohanty of Bargarh district, a bamboo crafts trader, this is one of the biggest business opportunities of the year, apart from Durga Puja. He has been attending Bali Jatra for the last two decades. Similarly, for Madan Mohan Khuntia, a food stall owner at College Chakka in Cuttack, Bali Jatra beacons a happy winter ahead. Just like the two, this trade fair is a boon to many. 

Winter and festivities in Odisha go hand-in-hand. As celebrations and culture evolve with globalization setting in new trends, for many the festivities of yore were simpler times with simple pleasures and things of nostalgia. Going out for dinner to a restaurant or a pub was a far cry. It was more about getting together with friends and family over scrumptious meals and varieties of pithas. Although things in cities and towns like Bhubaneswar and Cuttack have changed dramatically over the last decade, one can still feel the old-school ways of celebrations in the smaller towns and villages. Winter without festivals is incomplete. “Going around the neighborhood and coaxing your friends to come out of the house was fun,” reminisced Nihar, an architect.

Traveling Through Time 

As the days become cooler November onwards, it becomes suitable for travel and the picnic season begins in Odisha. Gone are the days when travel in Odisha was limited to either Puri, Konark and Chilka (the golden triangle) or a few other places in the state. As the state’s transport infrastructure has improved over the years along with all kinds of modern amenities, travel has become fun. The state government has invested significantly in developing infrastructure so that people, both from inside the state and outside, have a good time while traveling. Picnics in winter are a big part of Odia culture and it also means business time for tours and travel operators, car rental services and other allied services. 

When asked about the most fun thing to do during winter, Dimple Mishra, a social science student, said it definitely has to be traveling. “I have almost covered all the districts of the state in the last five to seven years. Back in school days we used to go for picnics to the usual destinations like Bada Ghagra and Sana Ghagra, Barunei, Ansupa Lake, Taptapani etc. But now, since the road infrastructure and other amenities in the state have improved, we can enjoy the real beauty of the state and explore new places. The accessibility to rural Odisha has improved a lot,” she shared.

Adding to it, her friend Rashmi Mohapatra said, “The best time to travel in the state is between November and February. The state has so much natural beauty that everyone should explore. Whether it’s trekking, hiking, water sports or anything else, there is enough for everyone to experience and enjoy. With improved connectivity to western Odisha, a new avenue has opened up for those who like to travel.”

Rashmi, who is also an aspiring photographer, said, “Odisha is a traveler’s and an artist’s paradise. I have traveled through more than 12 states from north to south, east to west, but there is no state like Odisha. There is a sense of calm here and the pace of life is pretty languid. It gives the artist time to immerse in the surroundings. The beauty of nature here is untouched. Every friend of mine from outside the state who has visited Odisha, has fallen in love with the tranquility. Most have returned for more.”

The travel and picnic season also means good business in the related industry. Samarth Patnaik of JD Travels, Bhubaneswar, shared his experience and said, “I have been into the business of car and other transport rental services for the past three decades. Things have changed a lot over the years in this industry. Winter is the best season for us in the travel industry. We provide cars to buses for rentals. Everybody loves to go out. The last two years were the most difficult for us in the industry but this year it seems like we are back in business and we are already booked for weeks ahead.”

The introduction of Eco Retreat in 2019 created a big buzz in the travel and entertainment sector of the state. The glamping event has become immensely popular since its launch. Over the years it has expanded from one location to seven last year. This has become a new way to explore Odisha for the people of the state and for visitors from outside. With all modern amenities in place and a plethora of options for entertainment it has become a must for the people of Bhubaneswar, Cuttack, Puri and others of the state. With guided tours and live performances, this has become a must on the calendars for many. 

Abhishek Senapati, a government employee has been a regular visitor at the Eco Retreat since its inception. He shared his experience and said, “When we were kids, travel was very different. Now, as our children are mostly stuck either inside the house or the school, this is a good way to explore the state in some way. Last year we went to Eco Retreat at Daringbadi and we had a wonderful experience. The children got to experience the natural beauty of the state and got to learn about the local culture.”

The development of Eco Tour sites have opened new avenues for people to travel. Odisha has now 50 Eco Tour sites including nature camps. These sites are spread across the state and have given a new dimension to the way Odias travel. At these Eco Tour sites one gets to experience the beauty of nature while surrounded by it. The sites are spread across mountains, beaches, jungles and nature reserves. The Eco Tour programme engages the local community and helps them earn a living while protecting and educating visitors about the local flora and fauna and the benefits they provide to the nearby dwellers. 

Amiya Kumar Pradhan, a true blue Odia, visited the Eco Tour facility at Tikarpada, inside the Satkosia Tiger Reserve, with his friends. He had a wonderful experience.”I have travelled quite a bit across India and of course I have been traveling across Odisha since I was a kid. Every winter I travel to a few places whether in Odisha or outside just to relax. Last year me and my friends went to Tikarpada Nature Camp and it was an amazing experience. The camp is located right on the banks of the mighty river Mahanadi. The view of the gorge is astonishingly beautiful. I have never had such an amazing travel experience before,” he said.

“Since I was a kid, winter has been my favorite season. The Odisha countryside takes on a character of itself during this season. The food, festivities and of course the travel are just the best of any state that I have been to in India. Back in school days, we used to visit my grandparents in Jaleswar. The ambience, the sights and sounds of the village life are something that one must experience in Odisha. Playing cricket in the fields in the afternoons, the bonfires in December and January and all the local jatras and melas were a big attraction for me. Even now, whenever I get the opportunity to visit our country home I do and sometimes I even gather along with my friends from college and colleagues from work to travel with me,” he shared about the charm of winter travel  in Odisha.

Abhijit Swain, a budding aerial photographer from Koraput has grown up on the stories of adventure and travel by his father and grandfather. Being from Koraput, gives you a different perspective on travel and the explorer spirit in oneself. He remembers his childhood days, “Being born and brought up in Koraput naturally makes you an adventurer. The geography of the place gives you a sense of independence and free spiritedness. As a kid, me and my brother would go on bike rides with our father along the hills and valleys of this magical land. Although the way we travel has changed a lot these days, Odisha still makes you feel the old-world charm in a very endearing way.”

Winter On A Platter

Being an agrarian state, Odisha enjoys the bounty of nature during the winters. It is the season of fresh green vegetables and all kinds of delicacies. With the onset of the harvest season, winter is a time to relax as all the hard work during the monsoon pays off in the fields of gold of Odisha. One can see the haystacks across the fields and vegetable patches in full glory across the state. The smell of hay drenched in morning dew and mud makes you feel at home and grounded. 

Abhijit Samantray, a resident of Athagarh in Cuttack district feels winter is the time to enjoy the bounty of nature. Barang, a place known as the vegetable basket to people of Bhubaneswar and Cuttack is known for its plentiful green harvest. According to Samantray, winter is the season of vegetables and all kinds of leafy greens. He feels that since Odisha comes in the top five producer states in almost all kinds of vegetables, the locals here, especially the young generation should learn to appreciate the gift of nature. 

“One should visit the vegetable gardens across the Mahanadi banks near Barang. It is a sight to behold. My favourite activity during the winters is to drive my bike or ride my cycle in the misty mornings on the banks of Mahanadi. The soil here is very fertile and is exceptionally good for all kinds of agricultural produce. And whether you are a nature lover or not, you will fall in love” he laughed.

He added, “My daughter, who is an IT engineer in Bhubaneswar and a food blogger on Instagram and YouTube loves it when I get fresh vegetables from our farm. She loves to experiment and create new recipes and what she calls content. Apparently, a lot of people on the internet love it. Winter is the best time for her as she gets a variety of vegetables to experiment with while creating new dishes. She says it also helps her with her kids who usually don’t like vegetables.”

For Ritu Patnaik, a home chef, winter is her favourite season. She and her nephew, who is a botany student, go on morning walks during winters and collect all kinds of edible flowers and leaves to cook with. Both, residents of Bhubaneswar, enjoy their winter morning walks of foraging and discoveries. She said, “The best thing about Bhubaneswar is the greenery around. I have been to many cities, but Bhubaneswar is one of the cleanest and greenest.” Talking about the Odia kitchen she said, “I don’t know where to start. The amount of recipes and plethora of traditional cooking knowledge we have is a treasure trove. If I ever have to choose one reason why I should invite people to Odisha then it would be solely for the variety of produce we have and astonishingly wide variety of cooking techniques that will satiate your senses.”

The Dream Of The Blue Turtles 

Odisha in winter is like Ruskin Bond’s vivid imagination, says Prachi Mitra, mother of two, literature connoisseur and game developer. “Well, for me, Odisha is a dreamscape filled with adventures and discoveries, and most of my discoveries happened during the winters of the 90s. I can still vividly remember the December mornings when me and my mom would go out to pick flowers around our neighborhood for the morning puja. The dew droplets, the distant Vividh Bharati sound on the radio, the birds chirping and the city coming to life after a cozy night’s slumber; the intermingling of sights and sounds in an eclectic milieu of disarming delight is what winter mornings have been always for me,” she smiled.

Winter morning bike rides are a thing, avers Manisha, lover of her Bajaj Pulsar 220f and smooth roads. For her, taking a ride through the Janpath and the Patel Marg exactly between 5:20 am and 5:45 am in December and January is what winters in Odisha are all about. “All I have to say is you have to ride your bike here if you are a true rider,” she recommended to all the riders and nature lovers. 

Winter in Odisha is cocooned in a time warp even though the temporal fabric seems to have changed. Whether you enjoy it or not, but the lazy and cool breezes of December are what makes life in the plains and the valleys of Odisha dreamy and magical. The beauty of traditions, culture and the natural heritage is untouched in this land that is known as Udra which translates to Utkrist Kala or fine craftship. Whether you are an engineer, doctor, filmmaker, lyricist, historian or coder or anything else, you can’t keep the beauty of Odisha’s winters away from your heart or inspiration.  

“I would say the best thing about Odisha;s winters is the way people chill here. Just chai and samosa or bara and guguni or visiting the Adivasi Mela and the Sisira Sarasa Mela or the Toshali Mela or just sipping fresh tadi from the palm trees in misty winter mornings by the river side,” shared Susil, an adventurer by heart who wishes to experience every aspect of Odisha.

Odisha in winters is a manifestation of the language and poetry and the ability to absorb the stories and sights that make us reminisce and propel us to explore as voyagers of distant horizons and dreamscapes of the rebels